Wheels on Deck: My Mediterranean Adventure with MSC Orchestra

As a seasoned traveller but first-time MSC guest, I was curious (and excited) to discover how the Italian cruise line stacked up against others. I booked the 7-day Mediterranean itinerary on MSC Orchestra, embarking in Civitavecchia.

Embarkation – A Smooth Start

Arrival at the port was straightforward. I was dropped off close to the ship, my luggage was promptly collected, and crew members kindly assisted me on board. Since my stateroom wouldn’t be ready until 2pm, I headed to the buffet for lunch.

That’s when I encountered my first surprise — I was told I could not sit anywhere I wished. Instead, I was directed to a “reserved disabled” table on my own. As someone who enjoys cruising for its social aspect, this was disappointing. Cruises are about meeting people from around the world, and this seating policy was isolating from the very first meal.

First Impressions of My Accessible Cabin

My accessible balcony cabin was located right at the front of the ship, far from the lifts — an exhausting challenge when navigating thick, plush carpet in a wheelchair.

Even more frustrating: the balcony had no glass panel, only a solid wall, obstructing any view and making the cabin noticeably darker. It felt like I had been given a cabin converted from a former storage area — certainly not what I expected when paying for a balcony stateroom.

To add, upon arrival I discovered my dinner seating allocation was missing entirely from my key card. Guest Relations escorted me to a restaurant manager, who confirmed I could dine there. My assigned table was tucked at the back — again, seating alone.

Accessible Tours – Or Rather, the Lack of Them

That evening, I visited the excursions desk to plan my days ashore. Unfortunately, MSC offered no accessible tours at any port of call on this itinerary. Worse still, I was told I couldn’t join regular tours unless accompanied by someone — even though I can manage certain steps and transfers. Cruising solo, this eliminated any MSC-arranged shore experience for me entirely.

Ports of Call – Making My Own Way

Embarking on a Mediterranean cruise aboard MSC Orchestra was a journey filled with scenic ports, personal triumphs, and unforgettable encounters. As a solo traveller using a wheelchair, I faced a few hurdles—but also discovered the joy of carving my own path through some of Europe’s most iconic destinations.

Port of Call #1: Genova – A Frustrating Start, A Determined Spirit

We arrived in Genova on Tuesday morning, the first official stop of the cruise. I was eager to begin exploring, but my day started with an unexpected obstacle. As I exited my cabin, I found the corridor blocked by room service trolleys. I called out for assistance, but no one responded. I sat there for several minutes, unable to pass, until someone finally emerged and moved the trolley. It was a frustrating moment that reminded me how even small oversights can create significant barriers.

The day before, I had visited the MSC tour desk, hoping to join an excursion. I was told there were no accessible tours available, and that I couldn’t participate in a standard tour because I was travelling alone. Disappointed but undeterred, I adopted the mindset of Hannibal Barca: “If there is no way, I will make my own way.”

So, I did. I purchased a 24-euro ticket for the Hop-On Hop-Off sightseeing bus and created my own itinerary. I explored Genova’s historic streets, enjoyed a delicious lunch in the picturesque fishing village of Boccadasse, and took in the coastal views on my return. It was a fulfilling day, made richer by the independence of crafting my own experience.

That evening, I returned to the ship. The entertainment programme didn’t appeal to me, so I dined solo at Villa Borghese and ended the night with a drink and a cigar at the Sea Lounge—my quiet ritual to reflect and unwind.

Port of Call #2: Marseille – Familiar Streets and Culinary Cravings

Wednesday morning brought us to Marseille, a city I’ve visited many times and always enjoy. After breakfast at Villa Borghese—again on my own—I disembarked and caught a taxi to begin my tour. Marseille is relatively accessible, though the upper quarter of Le Panier presented a few minor challenges with uneven terrain and narrow paths—nothing I couldn’t handle.

I had my heart set on dining at Chez Michel, known for its legendary Bouillabaisse. Unfortunately, without a reservation, I couldn’t get a table. Instead, I found a cozy brasserie in the Old Port that served a satisfying lunch and offered a lovely view of the harbour.

The afternoon was spent strolling through familiar streets, sipping pastis, and soaking in the Mediterranean ambience. Back on board, I had dinner alone once more, followed by drinks at the Savannah Bar and a visit to the Casino, where I met a friendly group from Belgium who had joined the cruise in Marseille. Their warmth and conversation added a welcome social spark to the evening.

Port of Call #3: Barcelona – A City That Never Loses Its Charm

Thursday morning, we docked at MSC’s brand-new terminal in Barcelona. The facility was modern, efficient, and impressively close to the city centre. Disembarkation was smooth, and stepping into this dazzling city after ten years felt like reconnecting with an old friend.

My day unfolded with a mix of nostalgia and discovery:

I wandered through the Gothic Quarter, where every alley seemed to whisper stories from centuries past.

I strolled down La Rambla, still alive with performers, artists, and the pulse of the city.

I capped it off with delicious tapas at a local spot, savouring the flavours of Catalonia.

Barcelona’s spirit continues to strike a perfect balance between old-world charm and modern vibrancy. I returned to the ship via a wheelchair-accessible bus, which made the journey back seamless.

That evening followed a familiar rhythm: drinks at the Savannah Bar, a losing streak at the Casino, and dinner at Villa Borghese. Thankfully, my waiters Raka and Adriana brought warmth and conversation to an otherwise solitary meal. I caught a short but enjoyable show before ending the night at the Cigar Lounge with fellow cruisers.

Port of Call #4: Ibiza – A First Encounter with Island Magic

Friday morning we arrived in Ibiza—my fourth port of call and my first-ever visit. After breakfast in my cabin, I boarded a wheelchair-accessible shuttle to the town centre and was instantly captivated by the island’s vibrant energy.

I spent the day exploring:

Wandering through charming alleys filled with lively bars, unique shops, and welcoming cafés.

Venturing into Dalt Vila, the historic high town, where ancient streets offered stunning views and a sense of timelessness.

Ending the day at Café del Mar in Sant Antoni, sipping a drink as the sun dipped below the horizon to chill lounge music—pure magic.

Despite the crowds and high prices, Ibiza won me over. I know I’ll return, and next time, I’ll stay for a few days.

Back on board, the evening was relaxed: a quick solo dinner, a cognac and cigar at the lounge, and great conversation with cruisers from Spain.

Day at Sea – Crowds, Sun, Good Vibe and Music

Saturday was a sea day, and with everyone onboard, the ship was buzzing. Thanks to a helpful pool attendant, I secured a spot on Deck 13 to sunbathe, sip cold drinks, and enjoy the lively atmosphere.

Lunch at the buffet was chaotic—crowds, screaming kids, and overflowing plates. I was seated alone again, and when I asked to join others, I was told MSC policy required guests with disabilities to sit at designated tables.

Later, I returned to the pool with my headset and Spotify playlist (thankfully downloaded beforehand—MSC’s internet package was a staggering €120 for one device). That evening was the captain’s night, with guests dressed elegantly for a complimentary cocktail. I didn’t see the captain, and the cocktail… let’s just say I opted for something stronger. A show, a few drinks, and I called it a night.

Port of Call #5: Cagliari – Sardinian Soul and Scenic Struggles

Sunday morning we arrived in Cagliari, our final port of call. Once again, the MSC tour desk couldn’t offer an accessible excursion and declined to book a standard tour, despite my assurance that I could manage the bus steps.

So, I took a taxi to the seafront promenade, where I enjoyed a proper Italian breakfast—espresso and a cornetto. Cagliari greeted me with Mediterranean charm and ancient allure. I explored the Castello district, which rises dramatically above the port, offering sweeping views and rich history. Though the steep inclines and cobblestones posed challenges, I managed with help from kind locals.

The Marina district was a delight, with artisan boutiques and tempting seafood. I returned to the ship early afternoon, packed up, and prepared for disembarkation in Civitavecchia.

That evening was bittersweet—farewells to fellow cruisers, a final dinner, and a couple of drinks to toast the journey.

Disembarkation – An Unnecessary Stress

I had arranged with Guest Relations to disembark at 9:30 am to avoid crowds. At 8:35 am, a crew member banged on my doo,r telling me to leave immediately. I explained the prior agreement, but she argued until I insisted she confirm with Guest Relations. It was an unpleasant end to the trip.

The Problems I Encountered

While the Mediterranean ports were fantastic and some crew members were kind and professional, the cruise experience for a wheelchair-using, solo traveller was marred by repeated issues:

• Isolation due to seating policy at restaurants and even at the buffet. I was never allowed to join other guests, meaning nearly every meal was alone.
• Poor accessible cabin location (far from lifts, challenging carpet) and a balcony design that blocked the view, making the room dark and uninviting.
• No accessible tours offered at any port, and refusal to allow me to join standard tours, even when physically possible.
• Crowded, obstructed hallways due to unattended housekeeping trolleys, at times leaving me stranded.
• High cost for internet packages (€120 for one phone for a week).
• Last-morning disembarkation dispute caused by a lack of internal communication.
• Accessibility wasn’t proactively addressed — I had to create solutions, not offered by the cruise line.

Final Thoughts

The Mediterranean itself was a joy to experience — each port had charm, history, and culture in abundance. I appreciated the effort of individual staff members like Ratu and Adrina in the dining room, as well as the helpful crew around the pool.

However, as a traveller with mobility needs, I cannot overlook the systemic accessibility and inclusivity failures on MSC Orchestra. Being repeatedly isolated at mealtimes, denied all ship-organised tours, and given a cabin that was both poorly located for wheelchair use and with a substandard balcony — all point to a cruise line that has not adequately considered the full guest experience for passengers with disabilities.

Unless MSC makes serious changes to its policies, facilities, and training around accessibility, I cannot recommend MSC cruises to travellers with mobility issues. Other cruise lines do far better in integrating and supporting all guests — and cruising is at its best when everyone can truly share in the journey.